GerardsJustaucorpsConstruction

July 6, 2009:

Bonnie came over the weekend, and we worked on the muslin for the waistcoat and the justaucorps. Here are some photos, first sleeveless and pinned on the dressform, and then with sleeves, sewn together and on her.

While Bonnie was here, we had a short window of opportunity, about an hour at max, to play with some makeup and get ideas of how to achieve a transformation from Bonnie to Gérard.

She will be using a prosthetic mustache, but since we didn't have it here we just played with stipple makeup. Also, she'll be wearing blue contacts and a blonde wig she has yet to find... :)

July 9, 2009:

After Bonnie left, I had a chance to mull things over. There was something bothering me about the Waistcoat muslin. We didn't take any clear pictures of it, but I was very aware of the arrow crease effect in the back, and didn't have the time to work through it then. So today, I took photos to see what was bugging me, and re-worked a second muslin.

Here is the first muslin, front and back, followed by two photos with the coat over it. I am, by the way, happy with the coat muslin, at least mostly.

I liked the way things looked with muslin 1 shown at front view. What bothered me are the arrow creases showing in the back. Furthermore, the flair at the bottom that I've gotten in my waistcoats was not what I'm used to... It was lacking.

Obviously, the creases in the waistcoat are much less visible with the coat over it, but there does seem to be a bit of a muddle there as a result.

Now, Here's the second waistcoat muslin, front and back, followed by some side shots, and two shots with the coat over it.

You can see the flair that occurs in the back at the hemline from both the front and back views. To eliminate the arrow creases, I did not pull in, but rather re-arranged where the seams line up. This made a big difference, as can be seen. I just hope it fits Bonnie as well as it fits the form. I'll be mailing the muslin to her so she can check in person.

July 24, 2009:

The muslin worked out. Yay!

I've took photos of the fabrics together, though I was still waiting for the lining layer. Here's a few showcasing the possible button choices set with the trim I intend to use. The black lace I thought might be an alternative arrived later, and I set it against the fabric. We'll be going with the inverted trim. Photos below show the difference.

The first two show silver buttons with a black star accent. I do not have enough of these to do both the coat and the waistcoat. But, they seem to get lost in the waistcoat, anyways.

August 2, 2009:

All the fabric has been washed and ironed.

August 3, 2009:

I've cut out the fabric of the waistcoat. Here are some photos of the fabric being ironed, with assistance from my cats. Of course. These are followed by some photos of the waistcoat cut out and hanging, along with a couple more cat assistant photos featuring Seuss.

These next ones are with very bright silver buttons. They actually look gold depending on the light, and that's cool considering there's both silver and gold in the waistcoat fabric.

So, after I cut out the waistcoat, I went to get the justaucorps muslin to take it apart and start cutting the justaucorps. But Seuss had other ideas. He was sitting on it, enjoying Bonnie's scent and taking a look out the front window...

August 4, 2009:

Last night and today I cut out the justaucorps. I'm loving the colors together, the drape of the blue silk noil, and how friendly the fabric feels.

As you can see, Seuss oversaw the whole thing, and approved.

August 11, 2009:

I made bias piping and attached the lining layer to the front panels, after sewing on all the little gores required in the skirts.

Then I constructed both sleeve cuffs... Both above and below you can see how well my cats are helping.

August 12, 2009:

I made tags. Yeah, I know, not necessary, but I wanted a diversion, and I'm feeling very tired. Right now I'm sewing the four panels all together. Pictures of that will come later.

August 13, 2009:

I sewed the body of the coat together.

August 15, 2009:

Gérard's coat is hemmed and pressed. Here are photos of the process, measuring, pinning, laying out & cutting, & then some photos of the finished hem:

August 17, 2009:

Gérard's vents are sewn shut. I've set in one sleeve, along with its lining.

Augutst 18, 2009: The sleeves are set in. Here are some photos I took along the way.

August 21, 2009:

I made bias piping, constructed the trim, and sewed it down the front panels. Then I went ahead and made pockets.

August 22, 2009:

I sewed the piping in along the open edges of the waistcoat. Next I attached the lining to the outer layers, and then sewed them together at the shoulder and back seam.

August 23, 2009:

Gérard's coat has button holes. I was left with a new dilemma; figuring out which buttons again, because it seemed to me the silver ones got kind of lost in the cuff fabric. The silver stars, not so much, but still, a little. So, I ordered some other buttons and waited for them. They came, I took photos, and then did a poll on my live journal, because I was having trouble making up my mind. The choices:

OK, so before, my first choice was the silver stars. The siliver filigree is to go on the waistcoat. The antiqued silver and gold domes where the new order, adding to the choices. The antique gold became my wavering favorite, but I still liked the silver stars. So. The poll results: Lisa and Eric preferred the silver stars. My friends preferred the silver stars by a certain margin. My friend Bonnie clearly preferred the silver stars. So silver stars it will be.

August 24, 2009:

I put the button holes in the waistcoat.

August 25, 2009:

The buttons are on the waistcoat. Now, I'm 45 buttons away from finished. Those go in Gérard's justaucorps... In the meantime, his waistcoat is completed. Here are some photos:

Since September 2007, I've been writing, working on a time travel epic inspired by Captain Julien's 18th Century costumes. I'm currently editing my first two completed novel drafts, and hope to have them published soon. Please like my Facebook Page and visit my Website and stay posted on my progress!

Several years back I began writing my first novel, the first in a time travel series inspired by Captain Julien's 18th Century costumes. I'm currently editing two completed novel drafts, planning my third, and working to get published soon.

Please visit and stay posted on my progress.

A bit of fabric inspired all that follows.

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